Rovaniemi: The Arctic capital.

The Arctic capital. Two speeds inside one city. Weekend tourists queue around Koskikatu: Roy Club has thrown "the city's best parties since 1985", and Bull…

The Arctic capital, split between tourist weekends and locals-only weekdays.

Two speeds inside one city. Weekend tourists queue around Koskikatu: Roy Club has thrown "the city's best parties since 1985", and Bull Bar is the loudest sports terrace. Locals spread along the pedestrian street: Cafe & Bar 21 for cocktails, Rovaniemen Oluthuone for beer, Oliver's Corner for whisky. Tourist weekends mean queues; weekdays are quiet and local.

Open since 1985. Three rooms: the city's biggest dancefloor.

Loud, packed, Premier League terrace, late food.

Local-favourite cocktail bar in the city centre.

Beer restaurant on the pedestrian street: big garden, wide tap list.

Pedestrian-street pub with an extensive whisky shelf.

Pool tables, games and karaoke in the evenings. As local as it gets.

Vintage living-room aesthetic; cocktails late.

Koskikatu and the pedestrian street hold most of the scene; everything is walkable.

Last call is 03:00; clubs close 03:30 in winter, sometimes 04:00 in peak season.

No Uber: save the local taxi number 0100 84 84.

Aurora season peaks October–March; check the forecast before committing to a dancefloor night.